17 relatives on a cruise? They coexist nicely and have fun, too
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I called it the "Ship of Fools" cruise. My father-in-law had invited the entire family -- his four children and their children -- on a cruise to the western Caribbean. There would be 17 of us, including his ex-wife (my mother-in-law) and his current wife. (Don't ask.) The age range was 2 to 72.
It's easy to see why cruising has become a popular sport for family reunions: The ships are big enough to hide out in, but the communal dinner table offers a perfect place to catch up. There's also the something-for-everyone mentality: Many cruise lines offer day care or "camp" for children; there are casinos and floor shows for adults, gyms for the fit, and movie theaters for the couch potato. Nowadays, there are Internet rooms for those who must stay plugged in, or deck chairs for those hoping only to unplug and read a novel.
One of cruising's biggest draws seems to be the food; yes, it's being prepared for the masses, but the quality is usually more than adequate. There's something to please every palate, from chicken fingers and fries for the finicky kid to groaning ethnic buffets for the gourmand. Add midnight feasts, the ice cream bar, the afternoon tea, the wine tastings, and the multicourse dinners, and it's a dieter's nightmare. My mother-in-law lost 10 pounds for the cruise, and promptly put them back on.
The old saying, "Fish and relatives start smelling after three days" explains why family reunions are best kept short. Our cruise was for seven days, and no one was disinherited by the end (though I did overhear my mother-in-law tell her successor, "I'm just glad he's your problem, not mine").
After a day or so, we each settled into a routine. My son, then 9, was thrilled with his unlimited soft drink card and the new friends he found in the video game room. The teenage girls loved the swimming pools, movie theater, and midnight buffets. My husband and I enjoyed the bars with their tropical drinks, the fitness center, and the shore excursions. The older generation seemed to like the nightly shows, the casino, and deck-walking. As for the toddler on board, she loved the doting attention from all of the above.
We sailed out of Fort Lauderdale, Fla., on the MS Maasdam (www.hollandamerica.com), stopping first in Cozumel on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. The cruise was all-inclusive -- except when we left the boat. When you board, you're asked to fill out forms indicating which excursions you wish to take. They can cost from $29 per person for a "water sports package" to more than $100 for a flight to Mexico City's archeological ruins. Obviously, the cruise line, as the middle man, makes a profit on the excursions. To save money, we went online ahead of time and learned that you can often just walk off the ship and onto, or into, the excursion.
In Cozumel, we opted for a trip to the Mayan ruins, followed by a visit to the folkloric ballet in town. It was skin-melting hot out, but my son was thrilled with the huge iguanas haunting the ruins. Back at a nightclub in town, the ballet performed in colorful traditional costume and masks to the strains of a mariachi band, while the adults sipped a complimentary margarita.
In Jamaica, we took a catamaran to a private island for snorkeling and picnicking. On board, the crew attempted to teach us how to dance to reggae music, which made for some hilarious family photos. Watch out for the "braiders" whose refrain is, "For you, pretty girl, only $2.50 a braid." What they don't tell you is that they can get about 20 braids with your hair, as they did with my daughter.
In the Cayman Islands, we took a skiff to Stingray City, a sandbar area that is home to dozens of the triangular-shaped fish. The brave (or inebriated) jump overboard and "visit" with the tame stingrays, which brush their velvety bodies against you and even eat out of your hand. And on the cruise line's private island, we boarded a banana boat for a wild ride that had a Texan on the back whoopin' and hollerin' as if he were riding a bull.
But it's the ship itself that is center stage. Though much of the actual cruising is done overnight, on a weeklong cruise there's usually a full day or two on board. For those times, seminars such as "bad hair days" ("wear a scarf" was actually one of the suggestions) and how to shop at your next stop were offered. There are spas for facials and massages, exercise classes, and often author and artist lectures.
On our cruise, there was an "art auction," though the term applies loosely. In the late afternoon, we loved finding a spot on a bar stool and watching the waves go by. The kids loved the piano bar -- and as long as they were with an adult, they were allowed. To this day, they swear that "Granny and Mom" were tipsy while singing show tunes. (I reply that Granny was, but Mom was not.)
Besides the convenience of getting everyone together in one place, we appreciated the casual feel of the cruise. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style; you could go in your bathing suit and no one would care. Dinner, however, is a more formal affair, though a sun dress will suffice nicely.
The after-dinner shows were pretty lame -- think lounge lizards -- but the older set enjoyed them. My favorite nighttime activity was falling asleep to the gentle lull of the ship. And setting my alarm clock for that midnight buffet.
Taking turns
After a lot of trial and error during family vacations, we started a new strategy a few years ago. Instead of dragging the kids to yet another museum ("boring") or Mexican restaurant ("yuk"), we decided to change from a benign dictatorship to a democracy. Now, on a weeklong vacation, each of the four of us gets to choose an activity of the day.
On a trip to Maine last summer, for instance, my son chose basketball. So we scouted out the local basketball court and played several tournaments. My daughter chose a favorite day hike. I chose sea kayaking. My husband chose biking. This rotation helps keep the griping to a minimum, and solves the "fairness" issue. What to do with the leftover days? Parents' choice, of course. With a little -- OK, a lot -- of help from our constituents.
Bella English can be reached at english@globe.com. All Along, her column on family travel, appears the first Sunday of the month.