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 All Along Destinations Get in gear Going Strong Outbound Taking Off The real deals Sensible traveler Where they went
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They met up with the Gecko group in Bangkok: another American, two Londoners (one a native Hungarian), and their guide, Peter, an Australian and retired physician.
One thing the Beirnes enjoyed about the adventure slant was "we didn't go to rug factories or pearl centers," John said. Instead, they traveled to cities and the countryside to get a feeling for the places and people, and they went by foot, minivan, pickup truck, taxi, plane, and boat.
The first stop was Chiang Mai and then on to Thailand's Golden Triangle, where the frontiers of Burma, Thailand, and Laos meet.
"The whole trip we were always along the Mekong River," said John. "Everything is connected by it." They toured the river on a variety of boats, including a long-tail taxi, "a variation on a beautiful New England whale boat," he said. They went kayaking on the Nam Song River in Vang Vieng, Laos, and went into caves where Hmong people would hide from the bombing during the Vietnam War, "not all that long ago," said Pat.
In Laos, they first visited Huay Xai and the ancient Lao capital of Luang Prabang. During a muddy trek to the Kuang Si Waterfalls, one of Pat's fears was realized -- a leech stuck to her leg. "I was screaming, `Get it off,' " which their guide did with a squirt of bug spray.
Pat said she "became upset learning how much the US has harmed the people of Cambodia and Laos" in those war years. "Laos is an absolutely beautiful country. It's very poor. But it's the first time we've been to a Third World country and seen no beggars." She was particularly impressed with Lao Textiles in the capital of Vientiane, a US-owned company that has helped bring back traditional weaving.
John noted how many Cambodians were land mine survivors, without arms or legs, many of them selling handicrafts.
"At first I didn't know how to take it. But Peter said, `They`re regular people, so engage them.' I did. Immediately they put down their wares and talk."
They visited the Landmine Museum in Siem Reap, where they stayed for several days to explore the nearby Angkor temples built by the ancient Khmers. Laborers worked 37 years to build the massive temple complex of Angkor Wat, which is the largest and best-preserved, and the country's top tourist attraction. "The jungle has taken over some of the temples, and they have trees growing right up walls with roots going down the sides," John said.
As for city life, Bangkok and Phnom Penh were "wild," they said. "In Cambodia there are lots of pizza shops where things are seasoned differently, such as the Happy Herb Pizza Shop," where the pies are sprinkled with marijuana, Pat said. She joked, "We chewed, but we didn't swallow."
Other food they enjoyed greatly, John said, especially in Thailand. "It's just out of this world. It's so incredibly well seasoned, with very interesting flavors and tons of fresh vegetables. Sticky rice was a big, huge thing. It's a glutinous rice and you eat it in balls that you dip in sauces."
The Beirnes said it was difficult to part with their fellow travelers after three weeks, and the intensity of their trip wasn't easily shaken off, either. They were constantly reminded, Pat said, that "we have so much here."
Send suggestions to ddaniel@globe.com.
