Writer shares her enchantment with the trail

By Diane Daniel, Globe Correspondent, 7/13/2003

More on adventure travel
Expeditions seek to see what Lewis and Clark first saw in 1805

Printable version
How to get there

Portland is a good starting and ending point from which to explore the Lower Columbia River and the Oregon coast. To reach Cathlamet, Wash., drive north for 75 miles on Interstate 5 and Washington State Route 4. To Ilwaco, Route 4 west to US 101 toward Long Beach Peninsula, 52 miles. From Ilwaco, Fort Clatsop is about 18 miles south on US 101 just over the bridge back into Oregon. Ecola State Park is about 25 miles south of Fort Clatsop off Highway 101.

Resources

Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation
PO Box 3434
Great Falls, MT 59403
www.lewisandclark.org

National Lewis & Clark Bicentennial Council
Portland, Ore.
888-999-1803
www.lewisandclark200.org

National Park Service
Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail
www.nps.gov/lecl

Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon
www.lcbo.net

``Traveling the Lewis and Clark Trail"
By Julie Fanselow (Falcon/Globe Pequot, $15.95). Most comprehensive guidebook, newly updated. Fanselow also operates www.lewisandclarktravel.info.

"Adventuring Along the Lewis and Clark Trail"
By Elizabeth Grossman (Sierra Club, $16.95). General guidebook with environmental slant. Also by the Sierra Club: "Wild America: Protecting the Lands of Lewis & Clark," and "What's Lost, What's Left: A Status Report on the Plants & Animals of the Lewis & Clark Expedition."

"The Lewis & Clark Expedition: A Traveler's Companion for Oregon and Washington"
By Stuart and Kathy Watson, (East Oregonian, $9.95).
800-781-3211; www.lewisandclarknw.com.

"Bicycling the Lewis & Clark Trail"
By Michael McCoy and Adventure Cycling Association (Falcon/Globe Pequot, $16.95). Adventure Cycling also has published detailed maps of the entire 3,200-mile route through 11 states.

"Bicycle Guide to the Lewis & Clark Trail"
By Tod Rodger (Deerfoot, $24.95). Rodger is a Harvard, Mass., resident.

What to do

Wahkiakum County, Washington
Lower Columbia Economic Development Council
45 River St.
Cathlamet, WA 98612
360-795-3996

Skamokawa Paddle Center
Skamokawa Inn and Cafe
1391 W. Route 4
Skamokawa, WA 98647
888-920-2777
www.skamokawakayak.com
Day kayak tours, $60 to $90, including lunch. Rooms, $80-$90; suites $130-$250.

The Bradley House of Cathlamet
61 Main St.
Cathlamet, WA 98612
360-795-3030
www.bradleyhousebb.com
Built in 1907 as the home of a lumber baron. Overlooks town and Columbia River. Rooms $99-$130.

Long Beach Peninsula
Fort Canby State Park and Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
PO Box 488
Ilwaco, WA 98624
360-642-3078
www.parks.wa.gov; www.fortcanby.org
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Parking areas, $5. Interpretive Center is free until renovation is completed this year, then $3.

Ilwaco Heritage Museum
115 SE Lake St.
360-642-3446
www.ilwacoheritagemuseum.org

The Shelburne Inn
Shoalwater Restaurant
4415 Pacific Way
Seaview, WA 98644
800-466-1896
www.theshelburneinn.com
Rooms $119 to $179.
Built in 1896, the inn is decorated with antiques. Its restaurant (www.shoalwater.com) is nationally acclaimed. Main courses $17-$26.

China Beach Retreat
222 Captain Robert Gray Drive
Ilwaco, Wash.
www.chinabeachretreat.com
360-642-5660
Two nights plus gourmet breakfast, $350-$395.
A worthwhile splurge, with lovely furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Baker Bay.

The Depot Restaurant
1208 38th Place
Seaview, Wash.
360-642-7880
Situated in a historic train depot, fine dining at reasonable prices. Must-try appetizer: fried Willapa oysters with roasted garlic aioli ($6).

Sanctuary Restaurant
794 Highway 101
Chinook, WA 98614
360-777-8380
www.sanctuaryrestaurant.com
Fine dining in a century-old former church. Food as heavenly as the angel theme. Main courses $13-$20.

Oregon coast

Fort Clatsop National Memorial
92343 Fort Clatsop Road
Astoria, OR 97103
508-861-2471
www.nps.gov/focl
Open daily except Christmas. $3 person, $5 per family. Site commemorates the 1805-06 winter encampment of the expedition.

Salt Works
Foot of Avenue U
Seaside
Replica of salt-making operation at original site. Operated by Fort Clatsop National Memorial. Living History reenactments from 5 p.m. Friday to 5 p.m. Sunday, July 18-20 and Aug. 15-17.

Ecola State Park
Two miles north of Cannon Beach, off Highway 101
800-551-6949
www.oregonstateparks.org
Long and short walking trails, some leading to coast, some overlooking the ocean. Day-use fee, $3.

Portland

The Governor Hotel
611 SW 10th
800-554-3456
www.govhotel.com
Rooms, $165-$500, packages available.
Historic hotel with Lewis-and-Clark-flavored luxury.

Oregon Historical Society
1200 SW Park Ave.
503-222-1741
www.ohs.org
Renovated museum reopens late September with Lewis-and Clark- themed exhibits.

Writer Julie Fanselow got interested in following the Lewis and Clark Trail after reading Dayton Duncan's "Out West: An American Journey." That travelogue from 1987 about Duncan's adventures following the trail has since become a classic.

During the past decade, Fanselow, 41, has become one of the nation's top Lewis and Clark specialists, having followed the trail several times to research three editions of "Traveling the Lewis and Clark Trail" (Falcon/Globe Pequot, $15.95). Even more up-to-the-minute information can be found on Fanselow's website (www.lewisandclarktravel.info). And for $79, Fanselow will personally help visitors plan a personalized trail adventure. The service, conducted via phone or e-mail, includes an autographed copy of her guidebook. (Contact her at julie@juliefanselow.com or by mail at PO Box 1593, Twin Falls, ID 83303.)

"It's exciting to see the bicentennial finally happening and see the excitement," said Fanselow, speaking by phone from her home in Idaho. Since first writing about the expedition 10 years ago, she said, she's seen a large increase in the number of travel services aimed at people wishing to follow the trail. She has also seen a change in tourists' knowledge.

People are "fascinated with the dynamics between Lewis and Clark," Fanselow said. "One thing I've been hearing a lot more of in the past year is people want to know about Sacagawea," the young Shoshone woman who, carrying her infant, traveled with the white men, serving as translator. "There's a real fascination with her. And rightly so."


		More on adventure travel Expeditions seek to see what Lewis and Clark first saw in 1805

		Printable version How to get there Portland is a good starting and ending point from which to explore the Lower Columbia River and the Oregon coast. To reach Cathlamet, Wash., drive north for 75 miles on Interstate 5 and Washington State Route 4. To Ilwaco, Route 4 west to US 101 toward Long Beach Peninsula, 52 miles. From Ilwaco, Fort Clatsop is about 18 miles south on US 101 just over the bridge back into Oregon. Ecola State Park is about 25 miles south of Fort Clatsop off Highway 101. Resources Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation PO Box 3434 Great Falls, MT 59403 www.lewisandclark.org National Lewis & Clark Bicentennial Council Portland, Ore. 888-999-1803 www.lewisandclark200.org National Park Service Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail www.nps.gov/lecl Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon www.lcbo.net ``Traveling the Lewis and Clark Trail" By Julie Fanselow (Falcon/Globe Pequot, $15.95). Most comprehensive guidebook, newly updated. Fanselow also operates www.lewisandclarktravel.info. "Adventuring Along the Lewis and Clark Trail" By Elizabeth Grossman (Sierra Club, $16.95). General guidebook with environmental slant. Also by the Sierra Club: "Wild America: Protecting the Lands of Lewis & Clark," and "What's Lost, What's Left: A Status Report on the Plants & Animals of the Lewis & Clark Expedition." "The Lewis & Clark Expedition: A Traveler's Companion for Oregon and Washington" By Stuart and Kathy Watson, (East Oregonian, $9.95). 800-781-3211; www.lewisandclarknw.com. "Bicycling the Lewis & Clark Trail" By Michael McCoy and Adventure Cycling Association (Falcon/Globe Pequot, $16.95). Adventure Cycling also has published detailed maps of the entire 3,200-mile route through 11 states. "Bicycle Guide to the Lewis & Clark Trail" By Tod Rodger (Deerfoot, $24.95). Rodger is a Harvard, Mass., resident. What to do Wahkiakum County, Washington Lower Columbia Economic Development Council 45 River St. Cathlamet, WA 98612 360-795-3996 Skamokawa Paddle Center Skamokawa Inn and Cafe 1391 W. Route 4 Skamokawa, WA 98647 888-920-2777 www.skamokawakayak.com Day kayak tours, $60 to $90, including lunch. Rooms, $80-$90; suites $130-$250. The Bradley House of Cathlamet 61 Main St. Cathlamet, WA 98612 360-795-3030 www.bradleyhousebb.com Built in 1907 as the home of a lumber baron. Overlooks town and Columbia River. Rooms $99-$130. Long Beach Peninsula Fort Canby State Park and Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center PO Box 488 Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-642-3078 www.parks.wa.gov; www.fortcanby.org Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Parking areas, $5. Interpretive Center is free until renovation is completed this year, then $3. Ilwaco Heritage Museum 115 SE Lake St. 360-642-3446 www.ilwacoheritagemuseum.org The Shelburne Inn Shoalwater Restaurant 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 800-466-1896 www.theshelburneinn.com Rooms $119 to $179. Built in 1896, the inn is decorated with antiques. Its restaurant (www.shoalwater.com) is nationally acclaimed. Main courses $17-$26. China Beach Retreat 222 Captain Robert Gray Drive Ilwaco, Wash. www.chinabeachretreat.com 360-642-5660 Two nights plus gourmet breakfast, $350-$395. A worthwhile splurge, with lovely furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Baker Bay. The Depot Restaurant 1208 38th Place Seaview, Wash. 360-642-7880 Situated in a historic train depot, fine dining at reasonable prices. Must-try appetizer: fried Willapa oysters with roasted garlic aioli ($6). Sanctuary Restaurant 794 Highway 101 Chinook, WA 98614 360-777-8380 www.sanctuaryrestaurant.com Fine dining in a century-old former church. Food as heavenly as the angel theme. Main courses $13-$20. Oregon coast Fort Clatsop National Memorial 92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 508-861-2471 www.nps.gov/focl Open daily except Christmas. $3 person, $5 per family. Site commemorates the 1805-06 winter encampment of the expedition. Salt Works Foot of Avenue U Seaside Replica of salt-making operation at original site. Operated by Fort Clatsop National Memorial. Living History reenactments from 5 p.m. Friday to 5 p.m. Sunday, July 18-20 and Aug. 15-17. Ecola State Park Two miles north of Cannon Beach, off Highway 101 800-551-6949 www.oregonstateparks.org Long and short walking trails, some leading to coast, some overlooking the ocean. Day-use fee, $3. Portland The Governor Hotel 611 SW 10th 800-554-3456 www.govhotel.com Rooms, $165-$500, packages available. Historic hotel with Lewis-and-Clark-flavored luxury. Oregon Historical Society 1200 SW Park Ave. 503-222-1741 www.ohs.org Renovated museum reopens late September with Lewis-and Clark- themed exhibits.